Review: Shiner Smokehaus by Spoetzl Brewery
I’m always looking out for the new and unique. Unfortunately, here in Iowa, that search rarely results in some crazy new Belgian beer with a wild yeast. On occasion, however, we do bring in the new beers by the consistently good breweries. This summer has definitely yielded plenty of new finds, and as fall approaches, the stores are stocking up in “pumpkin” and Oktoberfest seasonals. Recently I ran across a late summer beer entry, the Shiner Smokehaus by Spoetzl Brewery – a “Helles-style lager made with Texas mesquite wood-smoked pale malts.” Though I’ve seen the name many times, the Shiner beers are fairly new to me. In fact, Shawn and I just reviewed the Shiner Bock in Episode 2o of our podcast. Aside from the intriguing bottle design (a checkered pattern reminiscent of a BBQ’s vinyl tablecloth), it was the “Smoked Beer” style that drew me in to try the Shiner Smokehaus. Many of the beers I’ve had this summer made attempts at being light, refreshing, and occasionally sweet. A smoked beer seems right on target for pairing with some late summer BBQ food, and less about drinking for refreshment.
Style: Smoked Beer
ABV: 4.89%
IBU: 16
Serving type: 12 oz. bottle
Appearance
When poured, the beer was quite volatile without any provocation. Bubbles quickly rose to the top where they created a thick, white, rocky head. The Smokehaus is a burnt, yellow in color. Perfectly clear. Again, many large bubbles can be seen rushing to the surface. The large head subsides after a few minutes, but you are left with a white surface with fairly large gaps. This layer of foam stays with the beer for its entire consumption. Also, of note, there is no lacing on the sides of the glass.
Aroma
The smokiness of the beer is the dominant characteristic. The color of the body leads you to believe that beer will be slightly heavier, but the aroma insists the beer will leave you with a long aftertaste. It truly reminds me of the Rogue Chipotle Ale or Smoke Ale. I can’t sense much of a hop aroma. However, the smell ends with a subtle sweetness, a sign of its American lager heritage, and corn adjuncts. The smokiness provides a good balance with the sweetness, almost like a fresh plate of ribs smothered in BBQ sauce.
Taste
The Smokehaus tastes much like a bag of mesquite BBQ potato chips. It’s pretty dry in the mid-palate. The smokiness doesn’t really hit your tongue, but instead fills your mouth. It just lingers after the first sip. On its own, the beer falls pretty flat. I could see where you might pair this up with some sort of larger meal. Preferably, I would think some sort of beef or pork with a tangy and spicy sauce. You need to hit more areas on your palate with the food. This beer is going to rush in after and calm things down, but leave you with a bit of flavor to savor. Though the smokiness is the dominant characteristic, it’s a pretty tame flavor and will complement a spicy meal.
Overall Evaluation
If anything, I would have to say that the Shiner Smokehaus is an easy to drink beer with a decent amount of flavor. Again, it steps outside of the realm of what one might consider a “summer beer”. Instead of trying to be light and refreshing, its aim, I would think, is to complement a BBQ dinner. The next question I have to ponder is whether you want a beer that imitates the taste of your food, or would you rather your beer provide a contrasting flavor resulting in a balanced taste? If I want smokey and sweet, I’ll go for some ribs. The beer doesn’t provide enough all around flavor to replace actual BBQ. It could pair nicely, but again, I think you’ll want something possibly more contrasting in flavor for your meal. 3/5
