This past weekend, many Midwestern craft beer fans descended upon Minnesota. Their destination: Brooklyn Center, where Surly Brewing hosted Darkness Day 2010. This episode was recorded on Darkness Eve, so stay tuned for next week’s episode to hear our discussion about Darkness Day and Surly Darkness 2010. However, the meet-up for Darkness Day weekend provided an opportunity for Jason and Mike to finally record face-to-face with Shawn and guests in St. Paul.

A number of our most recent episodes have focused on Belgian-style beers with much discussion about funky, sour, tart ,wild, spontaneously-fermented beers. This week is no exception as we breakdown no less than three “wild” beers.

Our first beer comes from Upright Brewing Company of Portland, OR – a company that draws much of its inspiration from the creative spirit of upright bass playing jazz legend, Charles Mingus. Known for its farmhouse style ales, Upright created Four, a  wheat beer made from a sour mash.

Our second beer hails from the renowned Russian River Brewing Company, in Santa Rosa, CA. Temptation, a blonde ale that has been aged for 15 months in French oak Chardonnay barrels with Saccharomyces and Brettanomyces yeasts, as well as Pediococcus and Lactobaccillus bacteria.

Our third beer is again of Portland, OR origin – Apricot Ale of Cascade Brewing Company. Apricot Ale is an 8.5% ABV Belgian Tripel-style beer which underwent lactic fermentation for 16 months, aged on French oak wine barrels, and rested on apricots for an additional four months.

Upright Brewing Company – Four Style: Saison ABV (Alcohol by Volume): 4.5%

Russian River Brewing Company – Temptation (004×4) Style: Sour Ale / Wild Ale ABV (Alcohol by Volume): 7.25%

Cascade Brewing Company – Apricot Ale 2009 Style: Sour Ale / Wild Ale ABV (Alcohol by Volume): 8.5%

The Beer Genome Project #30 Show Notes

0:00-1:18- Introduction 1:18-21:02 – Four by Upright Brewing 21:02-44:42 - Temptation by Russian River Brewing 44:42-1:03:44 - Apricot Ale by Cascade Brewing 1:03:44-1:05:43 - Conclusion

Over the weekend, Rock Bottom Brewery of Des Moines, Iowa played host to the Iowa Farmhouse Ale Fest. The goal of the event was to “showcase beers that originated in the farmlands of Europe” as interpreted by Iowa brewers as well as various international renditions of the styles. Primarily, beers in the style of Saison, Bière de Garde, and Witbier, otherwise known as farmhouse ales, were on-hand.

I love finding out the tradition behind styles of beer, and farmhouse ales definitely have some unique profile characteristics that can be drawn from their brewing history. Originating in the French-speaking Wallonia region of Belgium, Saisons and other farmhouse ales were brewed during the winter and stored until summer harvest, where the beverages were distributed amongst farmhands as a safe and quenching beverage. As such, farmhouse ales were traditionally brewed with a large amount of hops as a form of preservative, but with a low alcohol content so workers could hydrate throughout their day. Today, these farmhouse ales generally fall within the guidelines of Category 16 of the BJCP. However, as this hosted tasting goes to show, there are few defining characteristics for modern farmhouse ales. Despite the change in brewing techniques since the style’s inception, brewers have maintained some of the original flavor profiles of the farmhouse ales. Wild yeast, once a natural ingredient in the brewing process, is now only used with the utmost care as a technique for introducing a certain level of funk or sourness in the flavor and aroma of beers. Thus, the farmhouse ales represent a broad range of beer flavors and give the brewer ultimate creative control in defining the drinker’s palette.

I must say that I consider farmhouse ales to be a gateway for those looking to get into craft beer. Beginning with the style of Witbier, you are presented with what is essentially a spiced wheat ale that is light, refreshing, but also flavorful without much bitterness. As you progress further into styles like Saison, you’ll notice subtle complexities from the yeast presented and the beer might have a dryer mouthfeel. Then as we find examples of Bière de Garde, our glasses will be filled with a sometimes darker liquid but almost always richer and sweeter with a nice malty body. Then, every once in a while you will come across Brettanomyces (Brett) in your beer for an extra kick of tartness.

Where am I going with this, and why haven’t I talked about the specific beers yet? A few nights ago, Iowa Public Television hosted a panel discussion on “Beer and Microbreweries in Iowa”. Check it out. As you may or may not be aware, Iowa is going through a few changes as we have just recently passed legislation allowing for local breweries to produce beers up to 12% alcohol by weight. Now, while these farmhouse ales aren’t necessarily at the extreme top of the legal range, they represent one of the many styles of craft beer that up until recently were either not capable of being brewed, or were just not prominent. The consumers of Iowa simply may not know about these intriguing styles of beer and it is events such as the Iowa Farmhouse Ale Fest, or programs from IPTV that set out to educate. Education on beer is why Shawn and I began our project and why we continue to learn at every opportunity. It’s now on us to bring this world of craft beer to those who want to know more. Eric Sorensen, brewmaster for Rock Bottom Brewery in Des Moines, acknowledged that while this year’s event was sponsored by the brewery, the hope is to have all of the Iowa Brewer’s Guild participate in the coming years.

So what was this event, and how did it all go down? Cost of entry was $30, for which you received a commemorative tasting glass and one heck of a tasting list. For your entry, each participant received a number of tickets that could be exchanged for a full glass pour of any of the available beers, otherwise, you were free to have a one-once pour of each of the represented beers. Rock Bottom had their own Tiger Lily Saison, Dangereaux Amber, Cerveza Especial Bière de Garde, and Flanders Fields Witbier. Mike Gauthier, brewer for Des Moines’ Court Avenue Brewing Company, was on hand to pour samples of his Wit and La Fou Blonde. Other Iowa beers represented were John’s Generation White Ale by Millstream Brewing Company, and Dinky Wheat from Olde Main Brewing. The Belgian-style beers are certainly being embraced by our local brewers, which is a trend I hope to see continue.

Now, this is the part of my post where I inform you, dear reader, that I didn’t take any tasting notes at the event. Jason and I kept pretty busy with conversation and jumping from table to table, trying to find all that we had missed on our first pass. I will point out some of the notable beers, however. In Iowa, we are privileged to have regular access to the Smokestack series of beers from Boulevard Brewing of Kansas City. Their Saison Brett is a dry, low hop, low spice beer with a slightly maltier mouthfeel. In fact, I compared it mostly to the Golden Ale from New Glarus Brewing Company of Wisconsin, if not more subtle with the brett and heavier in the body. Another gem in the crowd was the Blanche De Saisis of Brasserie Ellezelloise, which was sweet and well balanced with a hint of grain.

It is events such as this weekend’s that will work to grow the beer culture in Iowa. Every week new breweries are entering our market, and our local brewers are also now creating some great renditions of our favorite beer styles. Education can only grow the opportunities for new beers to come to market, so talk about beer and look out for more events and releases in Iowa.

Note: If you want to know more about some traditional examples of Saison-style beers, check out Episode 18 of The Beer Genome Project, “Oh, Saison”, or subscribe to our podcast on iTunes.

La Folie by New Belgium Brewing – This barrel-aged sour was the second American sour I had ever tried, (the first being Avery’s Brabant), coincidentally at the same bar (The Muddy Pig, Saint Paul). Albeit I enjoyed these two brews on different occasions, this Fort Collins, Colorado brew delivered an amazingly flavorful and tart beast of a spontaneous beer. Vinegar and cherry nose followed by tart woody notes with pleasant residual funk. A superb, sessionable sour.     –    4.5/5

Nor’Easter by Captain Lawrence Brewing- I hadn’t heard of these guys until the weekend of Darkness Day, when I met up with fabled beer traders Uncle Jedi and Purple Hat Joan, of Huntsville, Alabama. After enjoying dinner with these two, Leslie and I visited their hotel room, where I was fortunate to sample this barrel-aged winter warmer, complete with prominent fruity notes from the elderberries used in the beer. This was definitely a winter “warmer” ringing in at 12% ABV, with the sweet bourbon notes present in the mouthfeel.    -   4.5/5

Pumking by Southern Tier Brewing - A dark amber color with a potent spicy nose that fills the room with pumpkin pie aroma quickly. I am a pumpkin pie fiend, so this aptly-named “imperial pumpkin ale” delivers a punch of flavor and body. Yet, even though it rang in a 9% ABV, the creamy smooth mouthfeel is my definition of what a pumpkin ale should be. Yes, Southern Tier does have a few extremely gimmicky beers (think: Crème Brûlée) but this beer was definitely one I had to seek out and buy a few other bombers. Just so happened to be across the border.   -   4.5/5

Petunia Ale by Minneapolis Town Hall Brewery - Yet another beer I sampled Darkness Day weekend, I decided it was important Mike finally get the chance to experience Town Hall. This fall seasonal had great body, but was very well-balanced with spice. Unlike other pumpkin ales which use two prominent spices (cinnamon and nutmeg), this brew had at least four or five, rounding out the flavor palette. The creamy finish was definitely a plus, and it was a great draft beer.    –   4/5

Monk’s Blood by 21st Amendment Brewery - I waited nearly two years to have my first 21A beer, and I was fortunate to participate in the release parties (yes, more than one) in Minneapolis the weekend of the 21st of November (suiting, right?). Although all the beers Sully and his crew had available were phenomenal, this Belgian dark ale really fit the brisk late fall weather. The mission figs, vanilla, and Belgian candi sugar in its composition, completed by a barrel-aging to meld the flavors, really helped to yield a big-bodied, Belgian-style beauty.    –    4.25/5

“Sour” Rye Saison homebrew by Stephen Freshnock – I was able to meet Stephen Freshnock, founding member and regular participant of The Fellowship of Gentlemanly Gentlemen (known on the Twitterverse as the #gents) this August. I was able to acquire a few bottles of his homebrew when a friend visited Chicago for a weekend in late October. One of the two bombers of his rye saison I gave to BGP fellow Tom Hill; the other Leslie and I shared shortly after its arrival from Chicago. It was tart, with slight tangy pepper notes, the body reminiscent of a great Ommegang brew: Ommegeddon. For a beer of any origin, it was fantastic, let alone a beer made in a single, five gallon batch. Look for Stephen, a.k.a. @SlovakBrewer‘s beer in a brewpub someday soon.    -   4.5/5

The real winner for me this season was the La Folie from New Belgium. I can’t seem to get enough barrel-aged sour beers. It’s really too bad my sentiment is shared by only but a few über beer nerds the world over. Perhaps someday the BGP will have to acquire some used barrels for experimentation…

Another one of the up and coming breweries of Minnesota, Lift Bridge Brewing, has announced a new distribution partner for their Farm Girl Saison. Though it doesn’t look like I’ll be able to pick it up in Iowa quite yet, the rural regions of southern Minnesota look like they’re finally able to sample this local saison. If you’re just now trying out Farm Girl for the first time, give a listen to Episode 18: Oh, Saison and feel free to leave your comments.

We are pleased to announce that starting today, October 9th, 2009 Arneson Distributing of Sleepy Eye, MN will begin delivering cases and kegs of Farm Girl Saison® in their distribution area.  This includes the following communities:

• Granite Falls
• Hutchinson
• Redwood Falls
• New Ulm
• Waseca
• Owatonna
• Albert Lea
• Mankato

[via Lift Bridge Brewery]

We have had many requests from the area and we are glad we are able to satisfy those requests.  Here is a list of places who will be taking deliveries next week:

• Clay’s, Springfield
• Liquor Lodge, Redwood Falls
• Sleepy Eye Municipal Liquor Store, Sleepy Eye
• Liquor Mart, New Ulm
• Cash Wise Liquor, New Ulm
• Hy Vee Wine & Spirits, New Ulm
• Fairmont Municipal Liquor Store, Fairmont
• Phat Pheasant Bar, Windom
• River Bend Liquor, Windom
• Jackson Municipal Liquor Store, Jackson
• MGM, Mankato
• MGM, North Mankato
• MGM, St. Peter
• Cub Liquor , Mankato
• Snyder’s Liquor, Mankato
• B&L Bar, New Ulm

If you are in the area and would like to see our beers in your favorite bars, restaurants or beer stores, please ask the clerk, bar-tender, or owners to contact Arneson Distributing.  Thanks for your support.

Oh, Saison, am I not an admirer of you, and one deserving of perfection? It’s a world of new beer out there, and Shawn and I are here to learn as much about it as possible. Lift Bridge Brewery of Stillwater, Minnesota is still fairly new to the craft brew scene, but with their flagship Farm Girl Saison being distributed on a larger scale, it won’t be long before many take notice. This week’s show focuses on the Farm Girl saison from Lift Bridge, and placing it with a Saison Dupont in side by side reviews. The Saison Dupont, a typecast of the saison style of beer, is brewed by Brasserie Dupont of Belgium.

Lift Bridge Brewery – Farm Girl Saison Style: Belgian Saison ABV (Alcohol by Volume): 6.0% IBU: 30

Brasserie Dupont – Saison Dupont Style: Belgian Saison ABV (Alcohol by Volume): 6.50% IBU: n/a

The Beer Genome Project #18 Show Notes

0:00-1:08 – Introduction 1:08-17:08 – Farm Girl Saison by Lift Bridge Brewery 17:08-39:40 - Saison Dupont by Brasserie Dupont 39:40-53:43 – Weekly Discussion 53:43-55:16 – Conclusion

We were able to sample the Saison, the Dubbel, and the Tripel. However, due to the limited quantity of bottles available, Tommy and I purchased a few other hard-to-find craft brews. I left with two bottles of Kiuchi Brewery’s Hitachino Nest XH Ale, two bottles of Well’s Banana Bread Beer, and a bottle of Brauerei Heller’s Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier (Märzen). Tommy picked up a bottle of Private Weissbier-Brauerei’s Aventinus Wheat Doppelbock, a bottle of Ommegang’s Ommegeddon, and a few other Belgian brews (I shall update the post later to name them).

We left The Four Firkins very pleased with the selection, and having finally met Alvey, I was able to put another face to a name (and his Twitter presence @fourfirkins). I received an email from Jeff Williamson of Flat Earth Brewing Company earlier this week, where he mentioned that growler sales would happen twice a week now, on Tuesdays and Thursdays, from 3:30 to 6:30. With nearly an hour left, we jetted back to Saint Paul, and met up with Jeff at the brewery. We sampled a few beers there, including the Belgian Pale Ale, Sunburst Ale (apricot-infused Belgian Pale Ale), the Cygnus X-1 Porter, Northwest Passage IPA, Black Helicopter Coffee Stout, and a maple-infused Cygnus X-1.

After an afternoon of sampling, we decided to have more than just an ounce of beer, here and there. Tommy wanted to enjoy the afternoon outside on a patio, so we made a few pizzas, and sat in my backyard, enjoying the spring weather. Later in the evening, we decided to actually review a few beers. I opened my November 2006 vintage of Avery’s Mephistophele’s Stout, and Tommy chose to finish the evening with a sour / farmstyle from Ommegang — the 2008 Ommegeddon. Here is the video (please sound off in the comments if you have had any of the beers I mentioned in this post):

The Ides of April from Shawn Horton on Vimeo.

We’re celebrating the middle of winter by reviewing two brews from Minnesota companies. Shawn and I review Strawberry Wheat by Brau Brothers Brewing Company, as well as Surly Brewing Company’s CynicAle.

In lieu of a tasting tip this week, Shawn and I have a “Talking Point” on the “what” and “where” of beer drinking. We take the opportunity to discuss beer with food, as well as situational drinking with the appropriate beer.

Brau Brothers Brewing Company – Strawberry Wheat Style: American Wheat Ale / Fruit Ale ABV (Alcohol by Volume): 4.0% IBU (International Bitterness Units): 7.7

Surly Brewing Company – CynicAle Style: Belgian Ale / Saison ABV (Alcohol by Volume): 6.6% IBU (International Bitterness Units): 38

The Beer Genome Project #5 Show Notes

0:00-1:08 – Introduction 1:08-5:05 – Brau Brothers Brewing Company’s Strawberry Wheat 5:05-11:15 – Surly Brewing Company’s CynicAle 11:15-24:42 – Talking Point: The “What” and “Where” of Beer Drinking 24:42-26:40 – Conclusion